Sarah Bernhardt: The French golden voice

Sarah Bernhardt: The French golden voice

Considered as one of the best actress ever, Sarah Bernhardt’s artistic curiosities included plastic arts and Literature. Sara (Paris, 1844 – 1923), known as the queen of the postures and princess of the expression, was the daughter of a Jewish family from Holland and her true name was Henriette-Rosine Bernard. Her beauty and deep dark eyes together with her great bearing made her bright over the stage. Bernhardt studied Interpretation in the prestigious Conservatory of Pais, but before that she had passed most of her childhood in a convent. It was around 1870 when she started achieving a big success.

She was extremely gifted and her expertise was perfectly understand the psicology of the characters. Very soon, she was known as “the golden voice”. The audience admired her because of her spontaneity, her high knowledge and also, her eccentricities… She loved travelling by hot-air balloon and the coffin she always had with her to sleep in sometimes… In her trips she also used to take with her a lot of pets (cats, birds and turtles, among others).

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London was her first hit out of France. She had an enormous success also there. One year later, Sarah Bernhardt launched her own Company, she became an entrepreneur and started the first of her many tours in the US. She was an international star soon enough.

Her career was long and she had the chance to play any kind of role, far away from her own character and personality. Some of her hits were Rey Lear (as Cordelia) or La Dame aux Camelias (by Dumas). Rumours say that the last scene in this stage play was so realistic that a few women among the public fainted.

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When she was 70, she created Hamlet. One of her many virtues was modernize Shakespeare’s work. Instead of recite, she spoke the “to be or not to be” just whispering, which was an innovation.

After she suffered from the amputation of her right leg after an accident, she started donating funds for soldiers injured during the first world wide war. From that momento onwards, she only could accept roles where she could be sat in a chair.

Life was so good to her that she had even time to write her memories and publish a novel. However, death came to pick her up in 1923 when she was getting ready her new work. Her beauty, her talent and her personality made her be admired by men like Sigmund Freud and Oscar Wilde, and remembered as one of the best actresses in Europe.

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Texto @ Esther Ginés
Fotografias Wikipedia y @ María Vintage Photography

Martis, belli et fertilitatem deum

I always love to end the month with something special, and this year, my golden brooch is my project “Baroque Still Evens”, a project that takes me back to the great masters of the Baroque painting in whom I find all my inspiration.

March is the month of Martirius, Mars. In March the Spring just arrived and the first sprouts start showing up… The flowers come back from their lethargy and the fields smells different. But March is also the month of wars and fertility.

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This month, the basis of my work are the red and golden colors. The red color because it brings war images but also is the color of the birth, the new life. A color that makes me feel special the same way the smell of a narcissus does, the flower of March.

Mars is also the god who protects fields and cattle. That’s why I’m choosing the golden color, a tone that reminds me the wheat, those huge cultivated fields and the smell of bread.

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Each photography is unique, and as you can see, it takes a very careful and precise work from the study of the elements to the planning and developing. I don’t want to add any random detail to my work.

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This month has been specially difficult to focus on the theme and find what I was looking for, but what took me longer was to find narcissus in Madrid! Finally, I found them in a small garden center in the downtown.

After a whole morning playing with lights and shadows, this “Martis deus belli. Fertilitas” was born. I hope you like it…

 

Iván Martínez Segovia

Ivan started working as a professional photograher 12 years ago. When reading through his résumé, you realize how much experience he has at creating reports and how he’s been able to join his two passions: photography and music.

I met Ivan by chance, thanks to a beautiful volunteer work that Carmen Hache and Rosa Martínez are developing. It’s a charity project that was born in 2013 in order to create conscience and support against the domestic violence. “Butterfly Woman” contributes with the Foundation Ana Bella, where women who suffered domestic violence help others to get over it. “Butterfly Woman is a movement formed by women that fight the adversity and are able to get up after fell down, women that unfold their wings.”

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I joined their photo exhibition opening this year, and among all the shots I saw, my eyes were straight to Ivan’s. After I bought it to contribute with the project, I discovered all his work and why he did this photograph.

Ivan had a very serious bycicle accident back in 2014. The injuries were so bad that he had to leave his work for four months. During that time, he reconsidered his whole career and what he wanted to achieve with it. He decided he wanted to develop a more personal side of his photography, so after he fully recovered he did a few more courses to gain confidence and improve the criteria of his work.

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His first exhibition after the accident has been Buttefly Woman. Now he regained his illusion and excitement and is planning to do some more shows.

All photos within this article are his and are from his more personal portfolio. His work for Butterfly Woman is already in my living room as an important part of my collection from emergent photographers.

I wish you all the best and hope I can join your next exhibition.

Here are the links to Ivan’s work and the Butterfly Woman project.

Oficial Web: llamaranta.com

Flickr

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Proyectomujermariposa

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Joan Crawford’s jewelry collection

Most of the Joan Crawford’s jewelry collection was auctioned right after her death. Although other part had already gone before she left us, Joan Crawford kept her most loved pieces (not the most valuable though). This collection is mostly from the decades 30, 40 and 50 (20th century) when the style was daring and the trend was to wear big pieces with huge ornaments.

Among al her pieces let me highlight the following:

  • A wonderful set of jewelry formed by a necklace, two twin bracelets, earrings and a ring, all by Raymond C Yard, one of the most acclaimed jeweller in the States in the time.
  • One of Crawford’s favourite ones: a set in aquamarine and diamonds signed by the French house Boucheron (Verger Freres). Joan bought it in 1935 and since then she wore it in many occasions both, for the screen and her personal life too. After this set was acquired by Andy Warhol (for his “Collecion of Jewelry and Watches”) it finally ended up in the Museum of Fine Arts in Boston, in the exhibition “Hollywood Glamour Fashion and Jewerly from Silver Screeen”

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  • Alfred Steel, Pepsi’s CEO, was the husband who gave Joan most of the jewelry. One of these pieces was a tiny brooch in gold with rubies and bottle-shaped diamonds that she received as a wedding gift. Years after, this piece was auctioned for $5000. Other spectacular piece she was given was a wrist watch in platinum and diamonds, by Ruser. The design was quite daring for the time decorated with closter-shaped diamonds and a bracelet in similar stones. The jewel had this inscription in it: “To my love, Xmas 1958, Alfred”.
  • Impressive is also the set of brooches she acquired from the famous jewelry designer Fulco di Verdura. She used to wear them in her lapels to improve her look. Years after she started wearing them close to a diamond necklace she received, since the piece itself wasn’t enough sparkling.
  • By the end of the 50’s she added an amazing pair of earrings in diamonds to her collection. The design was also a closter in baguette, with diamond cut like markasites, each of them holding a little drop in diamond too.

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  • Joan Crawford was so in love with the sapphires that she was known as “Joan Blue”. One of her favourite pieces was a set of bracelets with three starred sapphires (up to 70 carats each). She also had an engagement ring in the same form and stones and a superb emerald-cut 72 carats sapphire.

Her carisma, feline eyes and her ability to play dramatic roles made her one of the biggest stars in Hollywood.  She deserves to be part of our biggest jewelry collectionists.

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BIBLIOGRAPHY

Legendaryjoancrawford

Jewelsdujour

Susanjanejewels

Mfa.org

Alta-joyeria.blogspot

Collectingfinejewels

 

 

With “H” for “Hebilla” (Buckle)

Every belt needs a piece to be closed and tight to the wrist. In the antiquity it was very common to see these jewels in silver decorated with semiprecious stones or pearls.

Buckles are formed by a movable part with the shape of a spike to fit the few holes in the fabric or leather part. That way you can enlarge or shrink the belt to your needs.

In jewelry, it’s a piece to embellish and enrich coats and gowns for parties and ceremonies.

Although nowadays it’s more frequent find belts made in cheaper materials, we love the chance we have to use vintage buckles in modern belts. This way, we’ll be beautifying the accessory with an exclusive and probably unique piece.

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The Herculan ruins inspire Ruhamah Smith’s wedding dress

Ruahmah Smith from Worcester got married with James David Jr in September 1801, in Massachusetts.

In her simple wedding dress can be seen traditional details from the time. The skirt is a little tidied up in the back. The edge of the bodice draws the shoulders backwards and push the breast onwards. Although the piece seems to be light and comfortable, the fact is that it forced an uncomfortable posture. The gown is embellished with a beautiful brunch-shaped embroidery.

By mid 18th century, the Discovery of the Roman ruins in Herculano started a period of interest for classicism.The concern for the perfect beauty, a Greek and Roman old idea, inspired the rejection of the over decorated things. The fashion was then stark geometrical shapes. Actually the dresses were similar to Greek columns. The high waist pushed up the breast. The favourite fabrics were white cotton and linen, because of their simplicity and the similarity to the marble sculptures found in the ancient ruins.

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The last years of the century came marked by the French Revolution, which influenced the fashion of the time. The perfectly organized dresses worn by the aristocracy were banished. Instead a fashion style based on classic dresses that let the body be revealed was born.

About Ruhama and James we only know a very few more things: they had two children, James and Rhama. Their descendants prospered and stayed in the area.

Ruhama and James’ granddaughter Ada M Davis was married near Worcester too in 1874.

 

 

Edith Piaf, the strength of a sparrow from Paris

Under the nickname of “Piaf” – “sparrow” in French – due to her weak appearance, Edith Giovanna Gassion was the most important French singer in the past century.

She was born in 1915 within a broken home. She was grown by her grandmother, who was a brothel owner, after she was abandoned by her mother when she was still a little girl. This sad childhood, when she had a temporary blindness too, became into an identity symbol for the rest of her life. Life seemed to be determined to treat her badly.

When she still was a teenager, while she was singing with her stepsister in the streets of Paris, she happened to get pregnant. However, her daughter died after two years because of a meningitis. Sadly, Piaf couldn’t give birth anymore, what meant a great tragedy to her.

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In 1935 her luck changed when she was discovered by Louis Leplée, a manager who regented the cabaret in the Champs Elysees. He got impressed by her voice and offered her to act in his place. He also gave her the nickname of Piaf, under which she was famous later.

Life started to get better for Piaf, that singer you might have seen with her eternal black dresses, but tragedy crossed her way again. Leplée was murdered in unknown circumstances and so her career was truncated. Only someone with the talent and strength of Piaf could overcome these many tragedies. From then onwards she survived singing in little places in the Paris of the IIWW. When the war was over, better years came.

She turned to be the muse of artists and intellectuals. It was her golden epoque. Her lyrics and actings excited everyone. She started singing in the most prestigious scenerios in Europe and America. Part of the money she earned she gave it to help other young singers who wanted to have a chance in this world.

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Love, however, wasn’t as generous as fame with her. She had many short-time lovers. Some of them became famous as well, like Yves Montand or Charles Aznavour. Who was considered the love of her life, the boxer Marcel Cerdan, died in a plane crash in 1949. She then sunk into depression that would mean the beginning of her decadence.

Despite this, Edith Piaf kept singing. A few year later some hits came like La vie en rose and her critically acclaimed Non, je ne regrette rien. She also took part in movies and theatrical productions.

The “Piaf of Paris”, with a weaker health because of a cáncer and with a huge addiction to morphine, had to stop her actings to recover. But she always managed to fly again.

Her last strength was to get married in 1962, just one year before she died, with her young hairdresser.

Her wonderful voice, her exceptional personality and her complex and tormented life were so fascinating that in 2007 her story was taken to the big screen. La vie en rose was stared by Marion Cotillard, who won an Oscar for this performance.

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Texto @Esther Ginés

With “G” for “guardapelo” (locket)

The name comes from the traditional use of this jewel: small pendant with a tiny box in it where you can keep a lock, a little photography or a miniature.

These lockets had a golden period during the Victorian era, when most of the women used to get it as a gift from their lovers. The purpose was to keep it with them so they can always remember their husbands or couples.

Traditionally they used to wore it pending on a necklace or stuck close to the heart. There are smaller lockets to be hung from bracelets as a tiny decorations.

Some of them had the cover by crystal in order to show the photography inside. Some times the locket allowed until 3 or 4 pictures inside, although it had to be made on that purpose.

During the Victorian era, the decoration of these pieces was very rich. It was usual to find lockets with beautiful flower, birds or other kind of appealing motives. And of course, they were decorated with enamel, precious stones and pearls.

As a curiosity, the first lockets were inspired by the old reliquaries.

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February: “Neptunus deus Maris” was born.

You all know that I love ending the month with something very special. Along this year, the monthly golden brooch will be my project “12 Baroque Still Even captions in 12 months”.

In my previous post about this project I told you how my inspiration came from the sort of painting called “vanity”, where luxurious scens of fruits and flowers get mixed with books, jars, coins, jewelry, paintings or musican and scientific instruments. All of them are objects that will be accompanied by pieces with symbolic meanings.

Each photography is unique and has been developed with a complicated and precise process.

February is the month of the water, the purification of the souls and the month of Neptune (Roman god). It’s also the month of the amethysts.

After many evenings studying about the meanings of those objects, looking them up in art books and the Internet, and of course, after having some inspiring ideas I wrote down in that small notebook MapyDh gave me one year ago, the photograph “Neptunus deus Maris” was born.

I hope you like it…

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Ges Rules

Her name is Esther, but her alias is Ges Rules. She is my emerging photographer for February. When she was born back in 1970, she opened her eyes very widely, like trying not to miss anything from around her… Or at least, that was what her mother and grandmother told her.

When she was 8 years old, she was given a Polaroid 1000 as a birthday gift. However, it wasn’t until she started her career as a graphic designer when she realized her true dream was being a photographer, observing and capturing life around her.

 

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I met Esther by chance in a while I was attending a course from David Sagasta. Esther let us use her house to take pictures and I inmediately fell in love with her delicateness. I remember I took her a little basket with fresh fruit in order to thank her for letting us use her house. However, the moment I gave it to her I thought that what I should have brought is in fact a little daisy bouquet… More like her personality.

I started following her work since that day onwards. I’ve seen her grow as an artist over the last two years… Grow a lot. Esther specially does street photo and portraits, two of the disciplines with the same core idea: elegance and tenderness.

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I bouth her photography “Behind Yourself” through a beautiful project the photographer Carlos Cazurro is developing: “Pictures for Palestine”. This iniciative was launched by a group of photographers who signed over their rights of their images for a given time in order to collect money for Palestines. I encourage you  to follow this project.

Ges Rules is nowadays a contributor with the magazine “Entre Camaras”, the Jorge Pozuelo’s school Fotoaula and has a few photos for sale in Getty and Art+Commerce.

Ges, from now on out you are part of my special photo gallery and also, of my life…

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“Currently I think without photography nothing would make sense. Photography is what helps me live” (Ges Rules)

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Images @Ges Rules

https://500px.com/gesrules

https://www.flickr.com/people/gesrules/

http://www.gesrules.com/